Routes to Climb Mount Everest: South & North Guide

Imagine yourself standing at the peak of the world, looking down at clouds and seemingly endless white peaks. That’s the magic of Mt Everest, the world’s highest mountain, rising 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) above sea level. Dozens of climbers attempt it every year, some traveling from as far away as Russia and New Zealand, with hopes of making history or fulfilling a lifelong dream.

But here is the thing: climbing Everest isn’t a matter of walking uphill. It’s an adventure that can be a matter of life and death, with icy temperatures, unstable weather, and utter exhaustion. One of the most significant decisions that climbers must make is choosing which route to take.

There are two main routes to climb Mount Everest: South Route (Nepal) and North Route (Tibet)

They both are dangerous, helpful, and demanding in their own ways. Some say the Mount Everest South route is the safest, but others believe that going around the crowded South Col benefits the North route. So, which one will you use? Let’s find out!

The Two Main Ways to Climb Mount Everest

1. Mount Everest South Route (Nepal) – The Classic Route

The South Col route on Mount Everest is the most commonly used way of climbing the mountain. It was first used by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 when they became the first people to reach the summit.

Route Overview:

Start: Lukla → Everest Base Camp (5,364m)

Key Camps:

• Camp 1 (6,065m) – Crosses the deadly Khumbu Icefall
• Camp 2 (6,400m) – A flat valley with strong winds
• Camp 3 (7,300m) – Climbers breathe oxygen here
• Camp 4 (7,900m) – The “Death Zone” begins here
• Summit (8,848m) – The highest point on Earth!

Benefits of the South Route:

• Greater Rescue Options – Helicopter evacuations are available.
• Greater Success Rate – More climbers have reached the summit. So, the success rate is high. 
• More Established Camps – More facilities for climbers.

South Route disadvantages:

• The Khumbu Icefall is Extremely Dangerous – large pieces of ice can fall at any time.
• Expensive Permits – Nepal wants $11,000+ per climber.
• Weather Risks – Weather is highly unpredictable; storms can occur at any time. 
• Crowded Route – Hundreds of climbers take this route each season.

The South Col route on Mount Everest is ideal for those climbers who prefer a higher chance of reaching the summit and are not particularly worried about crowds.

Recommendation Read: How Cold is Mount Everest and Where is Mount Everest Located?

Mount Everest North Route (Tibet) – The Tougher Challenge

The Mount Everest North Col route is more demanding and steeper than the South Col route. George Mallory and Andrew Irvine made the first ascent in 1924 (although they disappeared just below the summit).

Route Summary:

Begin: Lhasa → Everest Base Camp (5,150m)

Principal Camps:

• Intermediate Camp (5,800m) – The first stage towards high altitude
• Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) – The world’s highest base camp
• Camp 1 (7,000m) – Under the North Col
• Camp 2 (7,600m) – The coldest section of the climb
• Camp 3 (8,300m) – Short of the summit ridge
• Summit (8,848m) – Via Mount Everest North Face route

North Route Advantages:

•  Less Crowded – Fewer climbers attempt this route.
•  No Khumbu Icefall – Omitting the most dangerous ice segment.
•  Slightly Cheaper – Permit fees are lower than those of Nepal.

Negative aspects of the North Route:

•  More Technical Climbing – Involves sections that require dangerous rock climbing.
•  Harsher Weather – Cold winds make it harder to climb.
•  Chinese Restrictions – The Chinese government occasionally denies passage to climbers.

The Mount Everest North Face route is suitable for experienced climbers seeking a less crowded but more demanding ascent.

Also, read our Article “How to Choose the Right Everest Base Camp Trek Route“

Final Comparison: Which Route is Best for You? 

If you are a beginner climber, then it’s best for you to take the Mount Everest South Col route, but if you are an expert or experienced climber who is looking for a more significant challenge, then the Mount Everest North Col route might be a better choice. 

Conclusion

Climbing Mount Everest is more than reaching the summit; it is a matter of endurance, patience, and meticulous preparation. It is always your choice to take either the Mount Everest South route, with its established camps and high success rates, or the North route, which presents a rugged and technical challenge. At the end of the day, whichever way you go, it is bound to be an experience you will treasure for a lifetime.

Various options for climbing or ascent will characterize Mount Everest, depending on the person’s ambitions, situation, or level of preparedness. No matter what, remember the golden rule: safety first.

So, if you want to stand on top of the world, prepare today! Everest will always be there waiting for those brave enough to take the challenge. Are you up to it? 

Cost to Climb Everest

FAQs

What are the main routes to climb Mount Everest?

When it comes to summiting Everest, climbers typically take one of two main routes:

• The South Col Route (Nepal) – This is the more popular and well-supported route, starting from Lukla and passing through Namche Bazaar, Everest Base Camp, and the Khumbu Icefall before reaching the summit. It’s the same route taken by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.
• The North Col Route (Tibet) – This route, located in Tibet, is considered more remote and wind-exposed, but it avoids the notorious Khumbu Icefall. However, obtaining permits from the Chinese government can be trickier.

Both routes have their challenges, but most climbers opt for the South Col route due to better infrastructure, rescue options, and historical significance.

Which route is safer, the North or South?

The Mount Everest South route is considered safer because of better rescue options and fewer technical climbing challenges.

• It offers easier evacuation options, with helicopters available as far up as Camp 2.
• The climbing challenges are more manageable—despite the dangerous Khumbu Icefall, the technical sections aren’t as prolonged as on the North side.
• Weather conditions tend to be slightly more predictable compared to the North side.

That said, the North route (Tibet) has fewer avalanches, but once you’re high up, the weather can be brutal, and rescues are much harder since helicopters aren’t allowed on the Tibetan side.

How long does it take to climb Everest?

Climbing Everest isn’t just about reaching the summit—it’s about acclimatization and patience. The entire expedition typically takes 6 to 8 weeks, broken down as follows:

• Trek to Base Camp (South side) – About 8-10 days
• Acclimatization rotations – Several trips up and down between Base Camp and higher camps over 3-4 weeks
• Summit push – Once the weather permits, the final climb to the top and back takes 4-7 days

Most of this time is spent allowing your body to adjust to the extreme altitude and waiting for a good weather window.

How much does it cost to climb Everest?

Everest is not a cheap mountain! Costs range from $35,000 to over $100,000, depending on:

• Permits – Nepal charges over $ 11,000 for the climbing permit, and Tibet charges around $8,000+.
• Guides & Sherpas – If you opt for a fully guided expedition, expect to pay between $40,000 and $60,000.
• Gear & Supplies – Quality mountaineering gear, oxygen, food, and insurance easily add another $10,000+.
• Logistics – Flights, porters, and base camp accommodations all incur additional costs.

Some elite climbers opt for cheaper ($30,000–$40,000) expeditions with minimal support, while luxury expeditions can exceed $100,000 for added comforts like heated tents and private chefs.

What is the best time to climb Mount Everest?

The best climbing seasons are spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October), when weather conditions are more stable.

• Spring (April–May) – The most popular and safest time, with more stable weather and less extreme cold.
• Autumn (September–October) – A quieter season, but conditions can be less predictable with more snowfall.

Most climbers visit in May, just before the monsoon season begins.

Is climbing Everest dangerous?

Absolutely! Everest is not just a big hike—it’s a life-threatening adventure. Some of the significant dangers include:

• Avalanches & Icefalls – The Khumbu Icefall is constantly shifting, and ice towers can collapse unexpectedly.
• Altitude Sickness – Oxygen levels drop to only 33% of sea level, leading to HAPE (fluid in the lungs) or HACE (swelling of the brain).
• Frostbite & Hypothermia – Exposed skin can freeze in minutes at temperatures as low as -40°C.
• Exhaustion & Falls – The Death Zone (above 8,000m) is where most fatalities occur. Decision-making slows, and exhaustion can be deadly.

Preparation, proper training, and experienced guides can reduce risks, but Everest will always be a dangerous climb.

Can beginners climb Mount Everest?

Everest requires years of mountaineering experience, high-altitude training, and excellent physical fitness. Everest is not a mountain for beginners. Before even considering it, you should have:

• Years of mountaineering experience – At least 5,000m-6,000m peaks under your belt (like Kilimanjaro or Mera Peak).
• High-altitude training – Experience with extreme altitude and prolonged exposure.
• Technical climbing skills – You should be comfortable with ropes, crampons, ice axes, and ladders.
• Excellent fitness – Summit day alone takes 12+ hours of climbing at extreme altitudes.

Most Everest climbers train for years and first climb peaks like Denali, Aconcagua, or Cho Oyu before attempting it.

Do you need oxygen to climb Everest?

For most people, yes! The air is so thin above 7,500m that it becomes nearly impossible to function without supplemental oxygen.

• Most climbers use bottled oxygen above Camp 3 (7,500m).
• The Death Zone (above 8,000 m) has only 30% of normal oxygen levels.
• Without oxygen, even the simplest tasks can feel exhausting and dangerous.

Some elite climbers do attempt Everest without oxygen, but it’s perilous and only for the most experienced mountaineers.

What permits are required to climb Everest?

For the South route, Nepal requires a climbing permit ($11,000+). Tibet requires a Chinese mountaineering permit ($8,000+). Climbing Everest requires official permits from either Nepal or Tibet:

• Nepal (South Route) – The government charges $11,000+ per climber for a permit, plus additional fees for:
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry
  • Garbage deposit fees
  • Liaison officer costs
• Tibet (North Route) – China requires a permit costing over $ 8,000, which must be arranged through an official Chinese expedition operator.

These permits must be secured months in advance, and climbing illegally can result in huge fines or bans.

What is the “Death Zone” on Everest?

The Death Zone is located above 8,000 meters, characterized by dangerously low oxygen levels, which increase the risk of altitude sickness and frostbite. The Death Zone refers to altitudes above 8,000m, where:

• Oxygen levels are dangerously low – The human body can’t acclimatize here.
• Cognitive function declines – Decision-making slows, and climbers suffer hallucinations or confusion.
• Survival time is limited – The body begins to shut down after prolonged exposure.
• Rescues are nearly impossible – At this altitude, every climber is on their own—guides and Sherpas can only help so much.

This is where most fatalities happen and why climbers try to spend as little time here as possible during their summit push.